We spoke with James, who is a Cutter & Tailor, he speaks about how he started tailoring and the process that goes into making a bespoke suit. Previously located on Newington just off Bold Street, and formerly run by Ken Ellis who passed the business onto James in 2019 following his retirement, the new workshop is now located in Liverpool’s Georgian Quarter.
What is your craft?
I am a Cutter and Tailor at H. Coleman. We have been making tailored clothing by hand for both men & women since 1930, making us the longest running tailoring business in the city.
When did you learn the craft of tailoring?
I served my apprenticeship under the previous owner Ken Ellis who passed the business onto me in 2019 following his retirement. Ken started out as an apprentice at McCann's on Seymour street in 1964 and was then hired by Gerry Coleman in 1973 when his father Harry retired. Ken took over the business in 1999 when Gerry sadly passed away and ran the business in peace until I came knocking looking for an apprenticeship. He reluctantly took me on and I can't thank him enough for everything he taught me as it really is a trade that requires a lot of hands on experience that you can't learn from books.
What makes a bespoke suit different to a suit bought on the high street?
The word bespoke originates from the term "bespoken by" which basically means that all the details of the suit like the material and style are chosen by you, making it a truly one of a kind garment. As our suits are cut and made to our customers exact measurements they are extremely comfortable to wear and are made from wool or cotton from mills based in Yorkshire, which is much higher quality and longer lasting than the polyester materials used on the high street.
Do you find your customers are more local or from different parts of the country?
Many of our customers travel from all over the country due to the fact that we are offering Savile Row quality suits at a fraction of the price. A H. Coleman customer receives a unique experience where the person they meet is a qualified tailor who will be cutting and making their suit, rather than a salesman offering a made to measure suit that will be made in a factory abroad as a number of tailoring businesses in the city rely on.
What goes into making a bespoke suit, what's the process?
The process starts with the initial consultation where the customer is measured and then chooses the material and desired style features. We then cut a paper pattern based on the measurements and lay this on the cloth to cut the suit out and make it up into a first fitting. I find this part really exciting as it’s always nice to meet new customers and start the creative process. The first fitting focuses on the big picture of the suit and any alterations that are required to improve the fit are made and then it is made into a second fitting where details such as the collar and sleeves are checked. The suit is then finished and is ready for collection so overall the process usually takes 4-6 weeks depending on the availability of the customer to attend fittings. As we make them all by hand it really is a satisfying process seeing your work progress from a folded up piece of material into a special one of a kind handmade garment.
Are there any local independents/businesses that you admire?
I really admire the work of Harry Mytton who is a local traditional signwriter. His trade is in a similar vein as mine using old school techniques passed down through generations and I really recommend visiting his website as his work really is fantastic.
